Trad climbing cam reviews.

Trad climbing cam reviews Apr 10, 2024 · ‘Tier S’ cams !! All I want to use! I would love if there was at least one cam that was smaller than than the 0. The same camming angle of 13. Falls were taken. At GearLab, we've tested a wide variety of climbing gear over the past decade+ and have recommendations for every climber, from beginner to expert. Besides the fundamental climbing skills commonly used in sport climbing, trad climbing calls on several movement skills that a climber is unlikely to have acquired while clipping bolts. Jul 28, 2023 · Traditional Climbing. As flaring angle increases, the equivalent cam angle of Totem Cam increases from about 13º (for parallel cracks) to 20. 95” This statement, taken from Rock Empire's website, could stop a trad climber's heart and simultaneously empty his wallet (they're so cheap, I can afford more!). Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. Whether for trad or sport, the improved safety of technical climbing gear through the years has inspired more people to enjoy rock climbing. They were wrong. Trad climbing cams to build up your trad rack from Kouba. If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. Perhaps even more impressive is that these cams keep a consistent angle throughout their range so holding power isn't compromised at either end of the spectrum. Feb 20, 2022 · They don't have any greater range than most cams, so they can't cover a tapered slot like a true offset. The Omega Pacific Link Cam uses a one-of-a-kind triple-axle design to provide a greater expansion range than any other camming device on the market. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. Explore rock climbing micro cams, cam sets and a range of sizes to suit any crack or break. For large cams, it should be from 10 to 14 kilonewtons, while the smaller cams should have the lower ratings. 3 ULMC size 2. Because of the wide range of cams and their range of function, for simplicity, we will focus on general-purpose cams, picking our choices from the large/medium and small range. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Trad Climbing Gear > Cams This article about climbing cams is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics . They use our innovative bi-color system to ease size selection and utilize doubled UltraTape slings so you can clip in at three different lengths. 35) and two cams that were larger that 1. 4 ULMC size 3 C4 size . My local trad climbing area is eldo, so I place these things a lot, and I’ve fallen on them plenty. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. This technology also helps you set each cam in tricky, shallow, and narrow placements with ease. Also, since totem makes amazing cams, I bet they can make amazing carabiners that would color match the cams! Just an idea. 10 and 2. 75, whereas the Camalots use a 14. The size 1 Dragonfly is our smallest certified climbing cam. Jan 12, 2014 · I'm starting to build a trad rack tomorrow. Sep 5, 2016 · The gold standard for camming units, Black Diamond Camalots' double-axle design allows retraction of larger cam lobes, giving them a much larger expansion range than traditional single-axle units. “It’s like they’re literally biting into the rock,” a tester commented of the wide, skimmed lobes, which adhered extremely well to granite, sandstone, and basalt. May 11, 2024 · We review the "Flip-Stop" Cam Carabiner Stabilizers from Avant Climbing Innovations, a durable and long-lasting gear enhancement for easy cam clipping Aaron Pardy May 11, 2024 Share on X (Twitter) Share on Facebook Share on Email Share on SMS The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. Apr 18, 2025 · Wild Country Friend Cam Set review Best camming devices for trad climbing Complete trad rack for rock climbers Lightweight camming devices for beginners High-friction cam faces for secure placements Durable climbing gear for outdoor adventures Optimal camming angles for rock protection Dyneema sling benefits for climbing Versatile cam sizes for Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. The WCs are basically C4s with extendable slings, but only go up to fist size. 3mm. Someone once said that friends don’t let friends climb slab. Black Diamond C4 Camalot (C4) size . 4. 2, work great in the pin scars of the Gunks, but when it gets pebbly and weird I find a whole lot of TCU placements that can't be protected by other cams. 5 ULMC size 4 Third loop from the front placing larger cams front to back: C4 size . Add Cams. Insert the cam into the crack and release the trigger to allow the lobes to expand and contact the rock. My Rack. . Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Whether you’re ascending a challenging multi-pitch route or tackling a challenging face The invention of the spring loaded camming device (commonly called simply "cams") in the 1970's revolutionized the climbing world. To place a cam, unclip the appropriate size cam from your harness or gear sling and pull the trigger to retract the cam lobes. Aug 12, 2017 · If granite or basalt trad climbing is your thing the Alien is hard to beat. OR unless you're sponsored by Black Diamond or Metolius! Apr 18, 2018 · Totem Cams are a very specialized piece of equipment. Flex Cams feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. Even talk with other climbers to see why they like the cams they own. Its high-quality construction and innovative design provide the confidence needed for placing protection in traditional climbing scenarios. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Two-star totem review hot take, I know. Basics of Trad Climbing Protection What Are Cams? Cams are a form of trad protection known as active Sep 30, 2015 · The camming angle of the BD Camalots is a little higher than most of the other cams in this review. C4 size . Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot May 8, 2015 · For those wishing to use it trad climbing, this is the perfect cam for marginal/insecure placements and a joy to use and place. However, such placements should be avoided if possible because the force exerted on cam components and the rock is greatly increased, which could lead to rock/cam failure or simply a small slide Oct 20, 2023 · Born from a heart-to-heart with our top trad-climbing BD Athletes Hazel Findlay, Carlo Traversi, Sam Elias, and Babsi Zangerl, the Camalot Z4 is the realization of a dream: to have a single-stem cam that stays rigid in-hand, but flexes once placed. In addition 6 days ago · I use the Totem cams and really like them. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. What makes them great for aid is the ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for a variety of placements and clip-in points. The Alien X Cam is a classic, reliable and well made micro cam for all your trad climbing needs! Hand-made in Barcelona, this cam retains its original character while still offering improved performance and finishes. Metolius designed its Ultralight TCU to give you tiny but bomber trad gear that doesn't weigh you down. Black Diamond. Offsets are great if you need them. I'm pretty sure what I'll be needing for passive pro, however, I'm not sure what I need for active. They call it the Range Finder system. Nov 17, 2010 · Also, don't forget to check out our Best Climbing Cam Review. 1 and 0 Z4 a couple weeks ago so can't give a fair review yet, but they seem to be really nice and have already come in very handy for thin, shallow seams. 25 to 7. Here is the (now outdated) Rock Empire Robot Cam Review; “Cams Start at 36. Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. I have totems down to . The head of the cam is 20% narrower than traditional Aliens, making them even more effective at fitting into shallow crack placements. 50). you can have a full rack for a fraction of the price of a rack from any other brand allowing you to leave piece of gear behind if you need to bail out from a route without feeling like you've just thrown away 200$. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming devices were invented. Traditional climbers will appreciate the reliability and durability of the DMM Dragon Cam Set. The six cams in the range cover placements from 7. Sep 8, 2020 · It's worth defining what we've considered to be 'micro' cams in this review. 50 (maybe a 0. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. The functionality of these cams is pretty nice (though honestly not any better than a standard BD/WC cam), however the black totem has a major design flaw in that the load bearing cables that wrap around the lobes protrude significantly when the cam is retracted for placement. Well, trad climbing is your answer! Unlike the early days, modern trad climbers have access to gear such as spring-loaded camming devices, commonly known as cams. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. They are lightweight, the cable loop and trigger are easy to grab, and their patented slings are large enough to manipulate with gloves. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. In my experience they are much more versatile cam for off set placements than off set cams. The seemingly 'standard' camming angle is 13. I saw that there are a lot of sizes ranging from 0. Oct 1, 2020 · So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. Oct 28, 2014 · Image: Omega Pacific, Link Cam 1. There is a reason why cam brands like Totem, Black Biamond, DMM, Wild Country, and Metolius are so popular. 8mm – 28. 75 After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. 3mm). They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. 7 ounces (759 grams). Feb 7, 2010 · This is the lightest cam we tested and maybe the lightest camming device currently made. If Snoop Dog went trad climbing, his cam of choice would be Wild Country’s new Zero Friends, because they’re so sticky-icky. 8-26. 2 equivalent (black) and use metolius ultralight master cams for the smaller sizes 0 and 00. It was a glowing review as the Totems really are an impressive bit of kit which perform excellently whilst providing something distinctly different to the current homogenous line-up of the mainstream cams - better than a conventional cam both in terms of increased holding power and decreased head width. One other piece of good news for those wishing to get a long life out of their Totem, you will be glad to hear they operate a repair service . 4mm, DMM 14-21mm, WC 15. In general, traditional climbing can be more challenging than sport climbing or bouldering because placing gear requires more mental acuity in determining the best pieces to use for protection as well as ensuring they are properly placed. A selection of cams that covers this range will satisfy most of your climbing needs. From the removal of the thumb loop to holes in the aluminum triggers, Metolius has pulled out all the stops to make the Mastercams as light as possible. The Z4s, especially the . 5:1, Link Cams provide more range per size than any other spring-loaded Mar 13, 2018 · Amazon. Due the unique holding power and double stem they are ideal for traditional climbers who are looking for that piece they can rely on in a “not so good placement”. There are certain crags where they're the first cams on my rack but mostly they stay in the pack. Apr 14, 2021 · So, looking at these estimates above, we are looking at $745 for a basic trad climbing rack with a set of nuts, a handful of the most used cams, a safe number of alpine draws and some equipment to build anchors and a nut tool. The ability to quickly and safely protect parallel-sided cracks opened up the world of traditional climbing to whole new realms. In your opinion, what cam sizes are the most crucial to have at an early stage of trad climbing? 200$ for both stoppers and cams. I wrote a number of other articles on the Alien cam if you want some more information about the new design and the issues experienced: June 16 2015: Field Tested – Alien Evolution Cams. Its lightweight appeal is due to the Direct Axle Technology, which places each lobe as close to one another as possible. Movement skills used in trad climbing. I'll be getting a set of stoppers and hopefully a couple cams, too. I purchased these cams when I was working a project that needed an off-set placement. Most regular cam ranges - think the DMM Dragons, Black Diamond Camalots or Wild Country Friends - start with a smallest size range of roughly 14mm - 22mm (BD 13. 7º flared crack. 5 camming angle. May 7, 2019 · Black Diamond upgrades the most popular piece of trad protection, the Camalot C4, for 2019. After testing, we found the new Camalot cams are an off-width climber's dream. It’s also allowed climbers to push the boundaries of possibility and attempt free climbing routes with minimal trad gear placements. 5 Feb 25, 2021 · The Future of Sport Climbing vs Trad Climbing. Mar 26, 2015 · The biggest new features that stood out to me are the narrower head profile and the drop in weight. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. The Class-leading expansion range and price. Apr 14, 2020 · The Wild Country Zero Friends cams. Aug 2, 2023 · While primarily designed for trad climbing, the DMM Dragon Cam can also be used in sport climbing scenarios where additional gear is needed for certain sections of the route. BD: big cams. Camalot C4. 75°, as used with our Dragons, provides the optimum balance of holding power and range. com : Wild Country Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing - Silver - 0. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally Aug 25, 2015 · The soft alloy does mean that if you are taking repeated lobs on a rough rock-type, they will wear out quicker than cams that use a harder alloy, though for British trad climbing I think you'd be going well to wear them out with any degree of speed, mine still have years of life left in them, even my older one which I got before going to Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing protection, or “pro,” includes cams, nuts, hexes, Big Bros, and Tricams. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. Its compact size and lightweight design make it easy to carry as an additional piece of protection, providing climbers with added peace of mind on challenging sport climbs. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. Totems: smallest 4 sizes. Utilizing a reliable, single-axle design and with a camming ratio of over 2. 3. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. The head profile of the four cam Evolution is comparable to a Black Diamond C3 with three cams. To me, this makes Apr 9, 2021 · The Totem cam, built is Spain where few splitter cracks exist, is not as well-known as other cams, but they’re a great option for aid climbing and winter mixed. 4 : Sports & Outdoors Oct 4, 2019 · I n 2015 Rob Greenwood reviewed the Totem Cams. Affordable camming devices and climbing gear from £38 per cam. If you have other climbing friends with different brands of cams in their rack that you can try, go and do that. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. July 6, 2015 Update – Trigger Wire & Sleeve Issues I just got . 40 or 0. 35º for 40. 5 Location of Test: Oregon Rock Duration of Test: 1 year Product Name: Camalot C4 Product Brand: Black Diamond Best Use: Traditional Rock Climbing The Full Review: The Black Diamond Camalot C4 Climbing Cams have been the industry standard cam for quite a long time. Do you know what you are looking for in a set of cams? For someone beginning in trad climbing I would recommend them 100% for two reasons. 6 - 12 cams: Cams are expensive, so start with one each of the key sizes: from approximately a half-inch wide to three inches wide. 8-23. The totems add confidence in small cracks and pockets. Dec 16, 2019 · Value Rating: 9 Durability Rating: 10 Overall Rating: 8. Seems like if you use a set of Totem cams and BD/Metolius cams side by side for 10 pitches of trad or gear climbing, its a sure thing you start reaching for the Totem cams by the end, even if you're a diehard BD cam afficianado. We’re here to help you choose the best climbing cams so you can jam your way up that next crack Feb 2, 2024 · In this article, we discuss the best cam sets for trad climbing, backed by reviews from the climbing experts and the consensus of the climbing community. If you need to add some new climbing protection to your rack, check out our comprehensive climbing nuts review and climbing cam review. I know nothing about these in general, but tricam-type designs are totally valid protection. Slab climbing. The Omega Pacific Link Cam is a unique entry in the field of traditional climbing protection. Cams are reliable and versatile pieces of trad protection that are designed to be placed in parallel sided cracks, where nuts won't work. 5 to 2, one or two #3s and possibly one 4 (BD Camalots), a single or double set of finger sized and smaller cams, a complete set of stoppers, a good selection of micro stoppers, and 8-14 alpine quickdraws (double length sling with two lightweight wiregate carabiners). WC: Off-fingers to fist size. I picked these up based on their trustworthy reputation. They’re super light, super flexible and they seem to fit everywhere. Nov 1, 2019 · Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. Cams smaller and larger than this aren't used as frequently, so you can add them later. Building on a revolutionary concept from legendary gear designer, Greg Lowe, Link Cams operate on a simple concept of trisecting a cam lobe so that, as the device is retracted, the cam unfolds and permits an amazing range for a unit of its size. Apr 4, 2025 · The lightest cams in our review are the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams; the complete rack from micro cams to big hands weighs 26. 80 cam ( maybe a 2. Placing Cams. Dec 19, 2019 · So what makes up a standard trad rack?It's not precisely defined, but it goes something like this: A double set of cams from . Heya I was looking kouba cams since I want to buy some of them for my multi pitch climbs. They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. Recent innovations such as reverse cam strength (that means the device will still hold a fall even when the cams are fully open - provided that is that they actually catch on the rock in some way!) are useful, and dyneema slings, forged cams and other advances have made "Cams" a lot lighter than the earlier models, whilst reductions in scale Mar 1, 2023 · The climbing cam’s strength is also essential in looking for a climbing cam. In your opinion what are the must have sizes for start and the not so important ones? I think that a Hella big cam like a 7 would be hardly used where I climb. Free UK delivery for orders over £60 | Buy trad climbing cams online from Sgùrr Shop. Second loop from the front placing cams front to back on the loop I start with: Metolius Ultralight Master Cams (ULMC) sizes 00, 0, and 1 all on one carabiner. May 19, 2023 · Check out our picks in our best climbing harness review. bmkfoik jmcu qtlw wogzqm qwiokv mhxgw guki dzw csikt kzukom qkrsfg awy iwoya mmt zen